Illustration by Lauren Cheung

Sustainability sounds great, until you’re a student living in London. Bombarded with financially straining ‘tips and tricks’, it can feel overwhelming at times. It begs the question: why is the focus of sustainability on individuals rather than corporations? 

In a survey, 45% of students suggested and supported buying exclusively second-hand clothing. However, this can be extremely inaccessible, both physically and financially. As many charity shops increase their prices, are often situated in locations a distance from student areas, and rarely carry a large range of sizes, this approach is not always practical. While London offers various second-hand, thrift and warehouse sales, these are often far from major transport links or open at times that are inconvenient for full-time students. Rather than placing the emphasis on those in full-time education, it may be necessary for universities and local councils to support second-hand clothing and make it more accessible for students. 

Following this, 82% of the surveyed students stated they would avoid buying from fast fashion brands. While this is the most sustainable option, it is not always realistic. Many second-hand retailers fail to offer a wide range of sizes, while fast fashion brands do. Some of these, such as Shein, are also cheaper (although many are far more expensive and purely purchased by students for the convenience). I would argue that the vast majority of fast fashion brands (Zara, Shein, Bershka) make incredibly poor quality clothes that often fall apart or are damaged far more easily than they should, considering their price point. The composition of materials used to make clothes is also vital in determining whether they are value for money, as well as their environmental impact. Brandy Melville, while problematic in many ways, often sells tops that are 100% cotton, which will last significantly longer than a 100% polyester top from Zara. As a rule of thumb, if the top has loose stitching on the hanger before it has been purchased, it is not worth spending money on. 

While these big fashion brands should be held accountable for their environmental impact, the power lies with the consumer. With Shein widely known as the biggest polluter in the clothing industry, there is no real reason to purchase from them. Ethically, they are also known to mistreat their workers: no matter your perspective, there is no valid argument for supporting them financially. Constant repurchasing is one of the many ways fast fashion brands reel consumers in, as their clothes generally need replacing more frequently than higher-quality, more expensive brands. As convenient as they are in the moment, repeatedly buying poor-quality clothes usually adds up to more expenditure in the long run.   

Ultimately, responsibility for sustainability in the clothing industry lies with us: the consumers. Even buying one less top or jacket from a fast fashion brand helps, but committing to a lower consumption level and making that sacrifice is the only way to benefit the planet.